I use only the best professional gear to ensure I get results.
1 x Canon 1DX
1 x Canon 5D Mark 111 & Canon 5D Mark 1v
1 x Nikon D3s
(super low light capabilities)
Canon 24-70mm 2.8
Canon 70-200mm 2.8
Canon 16-35 mm 2.8
Nikon 85mm 1.4
Nikon 14-24mm 2.8
Nikon 24-70mm 2.8
Nikon 17-35mm 2.8
Nikon 70-200mm 2.8
Nikon 300mm 2.8
Nikon 50mm 1.4
Nikon tele converter x1.4
1 x Sekonic Light Meter
BACKDROPS & LIGHTING
Lastolite HiLite Illuminated backdrop for head shots for 1 person (will do 3/4 body)
Reversable Black /White backdrop for head shots for 1 person
Large 2.8 metre Backdrop with paper role – white, sky blue, neutral grey
1 x soft box 24 x 24 ”
2 x umbrella lighting
3 x Nikon SB900 Speedlights
1 x Canon Speedlight
2 x Nikon SD9 Battery packs
various reflectors and diffusers
2 x tripods
1 x monopod
I always shoot in RAW.
I want to create the most beautiful images I possibly can.
Subject, composition, and colour are so important but it is the quality of light that makes the magic….. Beautiful nuances of light that gives soft luminosity to skin tones and dimension to landscapes. A full frame camera has the capability to capture all that magic. And that all that capability can come into play when you capture an image in RAW.
A picture is worth a thousand words. Compare these 3 images. The camera was set to RAW plus jpg so the first 2 images were taken at the same time, with the same lighting and camera. I was doing a lighting workshop trying out a Rotalux Softbox which is famous for its dramatic drop off of light and shadows.
What I am trying to illustrate with these images is just how powerful the RAW file is, in capturing information compared to a camera jpg.
(The final image could also of course been processed to have the dramatic background shadows)
click on the images to expand
The best way to describe RAW images is to liken them to the old film negatives.
To fully come into their own, they need to be developed. The modern day Darkroom
is computer software and there is even an Adobe program called ‘Lightroom’ which
I use and thoroughly recommend. (Lightroom post coming soon)
If you have ever had the chance to develop prints in an old style Darkroom, you’ll know that longer you leave the paper in the solution, the more information is transferred to the paper. You have control how the final image will look, how dark or light the tones will be, the richness of colours. This is the same with RAW images in the computer. Through the software you can adjust colour and light – the highlights, mid-tones, shadows and contrast, colour balance and white balance. It allows the photographer to produce the image as he saw it on the day, instead of someone in a photo lab making those decisions.